Where to eat in Santiago de Compostela

Octopus cooking in a big pot in Santiago de Compostela

Santiago surprised me. I’d hardly thought about the city before I arrived, after (only) four days on the Camino de Santiago. Muscular and damp, like some northern European  town, moss envelops the spires of the sprawling cathedral, and the stonework everywhere is thick and dark. So different from the south (where I headed directly afterwards). And the food? Fabulous. Galicia is Green Spain – rainy and littoral – where the diet reflects the region’s crisp land and cold sea.

A few tips for eating in Santiago. Make sure you visit the city’s main food market (best on a Saturday morning). Don’t miss the pulpo (octopus). And be sure to get razor clams (navajas)… they’re sweet like seafood candy.

Not a big list this one. I was only there for a couple of days. Did I find the all the best restaurants in Santiago Compostela? Probably not. But this list should see you through a few meals (until I can get back and find a few more spots). Without further ado: where to eat in Santiago de Compostela.

Casa Pepe Portly men shoot the shit over excellent wine and charcuterie in this stately little tavern.
Cantón de San Bieito, 5
vinotecacasapepe.com

Abastos 2.0 The brothers who run this fast-paced little tapas joint go shopping in the market (which is right next door) each morning, and then cook what they find in the afternoons and evenings. The menu is short, fresh and runs out fast.
Plaza de Abastos

El Caballo Blanco Rough-and-ready tapas bar with a large outdoor terrace. Excellent for beers, cheerful waiters, generous free tapas and slap-up food.
Praza Pescadería Vella, 5

Casa Marcelo Communal tables (yes, you might have to talk to a stranger) and an open kitchen keep the energy electric in this ultra-hip “Japo-Gallego” (Japanese and Galician) fusion bar. Not cheap, and a couple of dishes didn’t match the hype… but I think it’s worth swinging by.
Rúa Hortas, 1
casamarcelo.net

James Blick

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