If I had to choose a favourite Andalusian city out of the Big Three – Seville, Granada and Cordoba – it would most certainly be Cordoba. With whitewashed walls, flowered patios, tumbledown squares and a fascinating history (under the Moors it was the largest city in Europe), Cordoba’s mystery and low-key beauty cast a powerful spell.
What’s more, the food is both outstanding and cheap. So, here are my picks for where to eat in Cordoba.
El Potrillo Español Tiny rustic bar, where charming owner Argimiro serves the drinks and cooks the all food. He’s got a little plancha off to one side, and does a mouth-watering tapa of champiñones al ajillo (grilled garlic mushrooms). UPDATED – THIS HAS CLOSED
Calle Lucano, 19
Salmorejería Umami Trendy, and not quite everything I hoped for, but worth checking out. They do a belly-boggling and constantly-changing range of salmorejos (mainly seasonal, and with several available at once). Other dishes too.
Calle Blanco Belmonte 6
Garum 2.1 The name is a concern, but fear not – the grub is top-notch. The menu is stacked with fresh, light and deliciously-prepared Cordoban classics, often with the Garum’s own slant. They do a good bull tail and salmorejo (two classics of Cordoban cuisine).
Calle San Fernando, 120-122
Bodegas Guzman Local Montilla-Moriles wine, served from the barrel. A drunken busker who was strumming flamenco beside the statue of Mamonides recommended this place. It was a good tip.
Calle de los Judíos, 7
Gastrotaberna Macsura Ate some excellent coquillas (small clams) and ortiguillas (sea anemones) here. They have an outside terrace.
Calle Cardenal Gonzalez, no number
El Tercio Viejo Ever sipped on snails? This terrace bar is a busy local hangout in the ramshackle north-eastern neighbourhoods. Prices are cheap and they do a lip-smacking rendition of a local delicacy – tiny snails served in a glass of slightly spicey and vaguely minty broth.
Calle Enrique Redel, 19
Restaurante La Boca The food was a slight let-down, but the verdant patio out back is a gorgeous spot for a drink. Try the vermouth cocktail.
Calle San Fernando, 39
Regadera Admission – I haven’t eaten here. But I wish I had, given the reports. The name means ‘watering can’ (they hang from the ceiling) and the food is fusion-y, with a strong Spanish and local bent.
Cruz del Rastro, 2
Choco Local boy Kisko García is the chef behind the province’s only Michelin-star eatery (he’s got one star). Again, I haven’t eaten here (being a poor soul), but I’ve included because I’m sure it’s worth a shot and, given the Cordoba location, the tasting menu is reasonably-priced compared to similar Michelin haunts.
Calle Compositor Serrano Lucena, 14
PS: Make sure you check out the Julio Romero de Torres museum. He was a local artist with a thing for Catholicism and flamenco. The results are unique.